Tate Modern: Picasso

Mostly 10am on a Monday morning is a great time to see an exhibition, positively relaxed and often empty, but this Monday it was buzzing. There are two major exhibitions on and one of them, Picasso 1932, has just opened.

1932 was an intensely creative period in the life of the 20th century’s most influential artist. Always prolific, he was just 51 years old, established and seeing younger artists nipping at his heels whilst his contemporary Matisse seemed a creative powerhouse.

There are some pictures from outside of the year, mainly to put his work into context, but there really are an amazing number works for just one year.

This is the first ever solo Pablo Picasso exhibition at Tate Modern. It  brings people face-to-face with more than 100 paintings, sculptures and drawings, mixed with family photographs and rare glimpses into his personal life. It is a huge exhibition, entirely unexpected in the context of just one year’s work.

By 1932 Picasso was married to the dancer Olga Khokhlova but had begun a relationship with the much younger Marie-Therese Walter.

His artwork Woman with dagger is a fairly straightforward reference to the rivalry and conflict in his love life

Thought the January of 1932 Picasso painted a series of pictures of a woman, almost certainly Marie-Therese Walter, sitting in an armchair, reading, sleeping or apparently listening to music. despite the common subject they all have a surprisingly different feel to them.

& in the middle of these seated figures are some still lives.

In early March 1932 Girl before a Mirror was completed, echoing a famous work by Manet.


A series of large horizontal nudes was completed in April.

Possibly influenced by the appearance in Europe of Japanese erotica or “shunga” art.

Picasso painted a number of reclining nudes in June/July of 1932.


Within the show there are also a number of his charcoal drawings, not studies but completed works in their own right.

In September Picasso engaged with more classical themes including religious such as the crucifiction.

Towards the end of the year the theme of his painting turned darker, towards drowning and the possibility of rescue, maybe because of an incident involving his young lover (Picasso could not swim).

The Bathers

Ball Players on the Beach

Woman on the BeachThe Rescue
By the end of the year, his young lover was pregnant and his had wife left him with their son. The political and economic situation in Europe was deteriorating rapidly. Hitler had been appointed Chancellor in Germany and Mussolini had consolidated his hold on Italy. Spain became engulfed in a civil war in 1933 and within six months the world was once more at war

A Sort of Asam Laksa

Asam Laksa is a flavorful, tangy, and spicy Malaysian fish based rice noodle soup, which is obviously not something a vegetarian can eat. This is therefore not a recipe for purists, but it works for my family.

Ingredients
  • 1 pot of tamarind paste
  • 8 cups water (2 liters)
  • A protein, which could be omelette strips, tofu, tempeh – whatever takes your fancy
  • 12 to 15 stalks daun besom ie. polygonum/Vietnamese coriander or if you can’t find an asian store – mint/coriander half and half with a dash of lime
  • 2 tbsp sugar
  • 2 tsp salt
  • 2 packets fresh thick rice noodles (30 oz/950g) or 10 oz (283g) dried thick vermicelli***
Garnish
  • 1 small cucumber (julienned)
  • ½ pineapple (julienned) or half a fresh mango
  • 1 red onion (thinly sliced)
  • 2 red chilies (seeds removed and thinly sliced)
  • 6 stalks mint leaves (stem removed)
  • 1 lime (cut into wedges)
Spice Paste
  • 3 tsp chilli
  • 3 red chilies (seeded and cut into pieces)
  • 2 onions(peeled, chopped)
  • 2 stalks lemongrass (bottom third only, thinly sliced)
  • 1 inch fresh turmeric (peeled) (30g)
  • 1 tbsp miso paste
Instructions:
  1. Blend spice paste ingredients with ¼ cup (60ml) water in a food processor
  2. Place tamarind in a saucepan. Make upto 2litres with hot water.
  3. Add blended spice paste, and other ingredients to . Bring to a boil, lower heat, and allow it to simmer for 20 minutes while you prepare the fish substitute such as an omelette or drained silken tofu. Add to pot.
  4. Season the soup with sugar and salt.
  5. Cook noodles in boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove and strain. Serve
  6. Place some noodles in a bowl. Top with a little julienned cucumber, pineapple, onion, red chili, mint leaves etc. Pour gravy over the noodles.
  7. Serve immediately with lime wedges.
 
Recipe Notes

**If tamarind paste is not available, 1 to 2 teaspoon (depending on taste) tamarind concentrate may be used instead.
***Dried thick vermicelli should be cooked in boiling water for a minute. Then turn off heat and let it soak for 6 to 8 minutes until soften. Remove and drain before serving.

Visitors

The snow has fallen and kept falling. The cats are going stir crazy, kept sane only by the many visitors to the bird feeder.

As well as the usual blue tits, we’re seeing a regular nuthatch pair, and perhaps saddest of all a blackbird that keeps trying and failing to hop across to the caged feeder.

Food so close, yet so far

He gets relegated, along with the London pigeons to the ground beneath the feeder but he’s not the only one lurking around.

Hunting for food under the bird feeder

Maybe a nocturnal hunt for scraps beneath the feeders explains away the success of the cats bringing home mice. It’s not as if these cats are particularly clever or even sneaky.

Spotted

And whilst the fox has nothing to fear from the cats, the blackbird is altogether more vulnerable, to both cats and fox.

Unimpressed by the snow
Nuthatch

Much safer up in the trees away from the predators.

Cold Weather 

Japan

We are told that the world of work is heading towards another revolution, where many jobs will be automated out of existence. It seems peculiar that one of the countries that is so very busy building the technology to bring about this end, is one that in some respects, resists automation so fiercely.

Japan is a unique culture. In a small Japanese tempura bar, you could easily see a lone chef, a man in late middle age, cooking behind a counter for no more than 11 customers. The set menu might have 15 items on it. That means that at any given moment, the chef will be keeping track of 165 pieces of food, each subject to slightly different timing and technique. You would not see him write anything down, expending no apparent effort. It is an everyday demonstration of total mastery. This doesn’t look so much like a job as a life.

In Japan, there is often a deep personal investment made by people  in their work. The word shokunin, which has no direct translation, sums it up: It means something like “master or mastery of one’s profession,” and it captures the way Japanese workers spend every day trying to be better at what they do.

Shokunin culture can have a side that, to those of us raised on a more brutally capitalistic worldview, verges on the ridiculous. It is not unusual to see men standing with a yellow glow stick, pointing pedestrians toward the pavement instead of to the parking lot nearby. Presumably, if a vehicle comes, they point towards the car park. The man is basically acting as a sign, a job that has already been automated away in most other developed societies.

Occasionally one can find a group of men drilling a hole in the road. Or possibly, just one of them digging; with the others four watching him. For the whole 30 minutes, that’s all that happens but it isn’t done reluctantly, or while checking their smartphones, or gossiping, or anything. It was purposeful.

This can be dismissed simply as people whose jobs involve literally doing nothing except that for the people involved it certainly looks and feels as if their work is meaningful. For these workers, the value they attached to work doesn’t seem to be simply its economic value.

A Japanese train conductor bows on entering and exiting a train compartment; a department-store worker does the same thing coming or going from a shop floor, whether observed or not, whether the store is heavingly busy or almost deserted. It’s clear that there are deep cultural differences at work here, not all of them benign; the reason Japanese has a word for “death from overwork” is because it needs one. You could even argue that work has too much meaning, is too freighted with consequences for individual identity, in Japan.

Among economists, Japan is a byword, a punch line, a horror story. The boom of the late ’80s and early ’90s — during which it became popular to imagine a Japan-dominated economic future, the subject of Michael Crichton’s thriller “Rising Sun,” for instance — was followed by a spectacular stock-market crash. The Nikkei share index hit a high of 38,957 on Dec. 29, 1989. Over the next two decades, it fell 82%. Twenty-seven years later, it is still only at less than half that 1989 value. Property values crashed along with share prices, which turned large parts of the financial system into zombie banks — meaning banks that hold so many bad assets that they are essentially broke, which means they can’t lend money and therefore cease to fulfill one of a bank’s central roles in the modern economy, which is to help keep the flow of credit moving.

The Japanese economy ground to a halt. Inflation slowed, stalled and turned to outright deflation. Add Japan’s aging and shrinking population, contracting G.D.P. and apparently unreformable politics, and you have a picture of perfect economic gloom.

It doesn’t feel like that when you visit, though. The anger apparent in so much of the developed world simply isn’t visible in Japan.

A student of the culture would tell you that public displays of anger are frowned on in Japan; a demographer would point to the difficult prospects faced by young Japanese, paying for an older generation’s lavish health care and benefits that they are unlikely ever to enjoy themselves. The growth numbers would seem to imply a story about stagnation. But unemployment is almost nonexistent — at 3%, it’s among the lowest in the developed world. The aging of the society is visible, but so is the distinctive liveliness of the various youth cultures. I’ve been to plenty of stagnant places, and lived in one or two as well, and contemporary Japan isn’t one of them.

 

Why? A big part of the answer, I think, lies in the distinctive Japanese attitude toward work — or more specific, toward meaning in work.

Work is good, but meaningful work is better.

Does our shiny new Western world of work — post-manufacturing, un-unionized, gig-based, insecure — offer as much sense of meaning as work once did, or as it still seems to in Japan? In Derek Walcott’s epic poem “Omeros,” a wide-ranging reimagining and mash-up of Homer’s Aegean and the contemporary Caribbean, he writes admiringly and respectfully of his protagonist, Achille, a St. Lucian fisherman. Achille is a man “who never ascended in an elevator,/who had no passport, since the horizon needs none,/never begged nor borrowed, was nobody’s waiter.

Near the end of Walcott’s long, meditative, elusive poem, that line gave me a jolt. What’s so bad about waiting tables? Is there really something so lessening, something analogous to begging or borrowing, about being a waiter?

The answer to that question for lots of people is “yes”. This isn’t a general human truth about workers at all times and in all cultures, because there are places where waiting and where service in general are deeply respected jobs. But it’s apparent that the new service work has many people doing things that aren’t congruent with their sense of their identity.

For many people, their personal story or narrative has become one of decline and loss, of reduction in self-esteem. The tension in status between different types of work is one theme of Karl Ove Knausgaard’s “My Struggle” — indeed, that is essentially what his struggle is, the gap between the narrator’s sense of what he should be doing, as a writer, and what he actually does all day, as a homemaker: “Clean floors, wash clothes, make dinner, wash up, go shopping, play with the children in the play areas, bring them home, undress them, bathe them, look after them until it is bedtime, tuck them in, hang some clothes to dry, fold others, and put them away, tidy up, wipe tables, chairs and cupboards.”

It’s sometimes said that the value of manufacturing work is exaggerated, and that we should just get used to the idea that most jobs are now in service industries — which is probably true. But unionized manufacturing work gave a sense of community and meaning that more atomized, more modern, more service-based work struggles to do. It doesn’t matter that many of those old jobs were boring, or brutally repetitive, or dangerous, or made workers sick — or, like coal mining, all of those things simultaneously.

In the 1937 speech where Franklin D. Roosevelt called for “a fair day’s pay for a fair day’s work,” he stressed that “the overwhelming majority of our population earns its daily bread either in agriculture or in industry.” Hard manual work created tangible products, and that tangibility was part of what made the work seem meaningful. Miners and autoworkers, laborers in the clothing and electrical and transportation industries, had a social cohesion based on the fact that they worked and sweated and lived and suffered together, creating a tangible product that seemed to them imbued with national, even world-historical, significance.

The danger is that a class identity founded on collective labour is replaced by an identity founded on resentment, further destabilizing our politics. As Japan shows us, there are worse things for a society than calmly growing old together.

White

Today is a day for staying home, lighting the fire and bumbling about.

Unusually, the snow has arrived in London, and is now spread across the entire country. In many places we are seeing red weather warnings ie. threat of life, across the south east and Scotland.

Schools are closed and the roads are snowed up. Even after salting, the snow is coming down so quickly that it’s becoming more and more difficult to get out and about so staying home seems the only sensible option.

I’ve ordered an electric blanket for the eldest away in a cold rental home at university and had it delivered this morning. It might be silly but I really hate the idea of her being cold in the night. Her plans are to visit a neighbour who had a stroke a year back and whose dog she has been walking weekly. She’s worried that he doesn’t have the heating on much and maybe could use some help getting some basic groceries to stock up. Without pausing for breath she noted the chance that she might find him dead or struggling – it’s time to be a good neighbour.

The snow is predicted to continue right through to the weekend so I’ve warned her to stock up for the long term – the snow is only going to get deeper and colder.

Syllabub

An Elizabeth David  version of everlasting syllabub

Everlasting syllabub.
  • One small glass or 4oz, of white wine or sherry;
  • 2 tablespoons of brandy;
  • one lemon;
  • 2oz of sugar;
  • ½ pint of double cream; and,
  • nutmeg.

The day before the syllabub is to be made, put the thinly pared rind of the lemon and the juice in a bowl with the wine and brandy and leave overnight. Next day, strain the wine and lemon mixture into a large and deep bowl.

Add the sugar and stir until it has dissolved. Pour in the cream slowly, stirring all the time. Grate in a little nutmeg.

Now whisk the mixture until it thickens and will hold a soft peak on the whisk. The process may take 5 minutes, it may take as long as 15. It depends on the cream, the temperature and the method of whisking.

When the cream is ready, spoon it into glasses, which should be of very small capacity (2 to 2½ oz) but filled to overflowing. Once in the glasses the cream will not spoil nor sink nor separate. A tiny sprig of rosemary or a little twist of lemon peel can be stuck into each little filled glass. Keep the syllabubs in a cool place – not in the refrigerator – until you are ready to serve them.

They can be made at least two days before they are needed. The quantities given will fill 10 small syllabub or custard cups or sherry glasses and will be enough for four to six people.

Chilli Aubergine

Spicy, sweet and seedy battered veg. Sprinkle with coriander

Eat them quick: crisp aubergines with chilli sauce.

Make a loose batter by whisking together a large egg, 4 tbsp of cold water and 2 tbsp of flour. Salt it lightly and set aside.

Put 30g of sugar into a small saucepan with 3 tbsp of rice wine vinegar, 2 tbsp of light soy sauce, and 2 lightly heaped tbsp of chilli paste. Bring to the boil, then remove from the heat and put to one side.

Tip 2 tbsp of sesame seeds into a small, shallow pan and toast over a moderate heat until fragrant and walnut brown. Remove the pan from the heat. Slice 400g of aubergines in half and then into segments, about 6 per fruit. Heat about 250ml of oil in a small, deep pan, to no lower than 160C then, when it is thoroughly hot, dip the aubergine pieces in the batter one by one, and lower them carefully into the oil.

Cook for 5 minutes or until the outer batter is crisp, the inner flesh soft as marshmallow. Drain each piece briefly on kitchen paper then trickle with the hot chilli sauce and sprinkle over some of the sesame seeds, a little coriander for those who like it, and perhaps a small, ripe chilli, sliced thin.

You could prepare artichokes in the same way. Use those that come marinated in oil, wiping them first then dipping into the batter as you would the aubergines.

Privilege

One of my daughters is at university whilst the other will probably leave for university this September. I don’t like to think about the latter. I’m busy pretending to myself that my babies still live at home, whilst also, and in an entirely contradictory manner, congratulating them on growing into such wonderful women. But probably, by the end of the year, we will have two semi-adult, semi-independent children living away from home, and that costs money.

There is a debate at the moment about student fees in the UK. Changes in the way the UK finances tertiary education mean that we now have the most expensive undergraduate courses in the world.

University coasts break down into two component parts: fees for tuition and maintenance.

In England annual university fees are now £9250 a year. The loans are “owned” by a private company and the interest rate charged, which accrues from the minute that you first take out the loan, is around 6% making for a cost of more than £555 a year for the start of your course.

However large the loan is that you build up, let’s say £27,750 capital over three years plus interest accrued £3,465 by the end of a three year course i.e. £31,215, you will only start repaying it when you earn more than £21,000. repayment is charged through the UK payroll system of taxes (PAYE) at a rate of 9% pa. on top of the standard UK income tax rates. This additional tax is paid until either the loan is paid off or 30 years have passed, in which case any outstanding amount is written off.

So it’s an expensive business having children at university. When I consider the rather measly 6 hours contact time my eldest enjoys at university, the cost is only bearable when viewed as compensating or supplementing the 35+hours that her sister will require.

It costs roughly the same amount again for maintenance i.e. accommodation etc so in reality many children will end up with debts of around £60,000.

And since the loans are only repaid over a certain income threshold, and since many women will take a career break to have kids and return to work only part-time, a substantial proportion of the loan balance will never be repaid (around 45% of the total loan portfolio). This unpaid balance is building up, but ultimately will be the responsibility of the government ie. all tax payers, graduates or otherwise to repay.

We decided to pay for our children’s maintenance ourselves, and are obviously lucky enough to afford to do so. But we decided to encourage our daughters to take out a student loan for the fees. A number of friends find this decision incomprehensible with one going so far as to ask how we could do such a thing, having happily paid for our children to attend private schools as if they were one and the same issue.

Hmm.

In the UK we have seen a vast expansion of university places such that the number of children attending university has risen from around 20%  to 50% of the population. And that expansion has been funded largely by the rise in student fees. Calls to reduce or remove fees entirely, seem to ignore the consequence of cutting places for students to study. The country could not afford to pay for 50% of kids to attend to university if it was all paid for by central government.

And so you see a rise in the number of people suggesting that it would okay to restrict university places, because university should not be the be-all and end-all. University, apparently, is not right for everyone and we have gone too far in suggesting that it is.

My problem with this argument, is that it seems to be made mostly by people who have no doubt that their children will attend university, come what may. University may not be for everyone else’s kids, but it most definitely is the right place for their kids. other people’s kids can grow up to be plumbers and electricians. Their kids will grow up to be middle-managers, lawyers, doctors etc.

Because when people of my generation went to university, there was an obvious restriction on the number of places at university. And that had consequences. Most of the people I know now, went to very safe, very middle-class schools, private or grammar. Almost everyone they knew as kids went to university, and the idea that they were part of only 20% of the population doesn’t really ring true for them. I went to a very poor working class comprehensive state school. Out of a school year with around 180 pupils, around around 4 of us went to university. So whilst almost 100% of my middle class friends’ classes went to university, just 2% of my peers managed to make it to university.

Any suggestion that we should cut back on university places, inevitably means cutbacks for the working class, for the poorest amongst us.

So my children will take out student loans that will be expensive and unwieldy to pay back, because in part this will fund kids’ education who could not afford to attend university without a loans system.

They will also take out student loans, because at some level, knowing that they personally are paying for their university course, will hopefully encourage them to try and get the best value out of their course. It will give them some skin in the educational game.

Maybe.

I’m told that all young kids want to do is chill out and get pissed, that the loan is somethings they will simply write-off or ignore. It seems to me that some kids will be like this and some won’t. I’m hopeful that my kids have been raised with a greater sense of responsibility but also believe that times have changed and this generation of young people is incredibly more hard-working and focused than our generation ever was.

Either way it has nothing to do with paying private school fees which are absolutely indefensible from a moral societal perspective. People pay for private schools because they believe it will advantage their kids in some way, much as any other selection process within education privileges children. We paid for private education because we wanted both girls to attend single-sex schools, to be within a highly motivated, focused and quite narrow academic stream and obviously because we likes the additional facilities that mad wit easier for the kids to study and study well.

We had the money and were willing to spend it. Other people without the money, make different choices where they can such as sitting for competitive grammar schools etc. There is no moral high ground in terms of selective education.

& it would be stupid to pretend otherwise, I have voted and will continue to vote for a government willing to abolish all types of selective education, whether academic or faith. But whilst it’s available, we made use of the advantage it could offer our daughters.

And the privilege we are willing to offer our kids continues unabated. If my girls want to study for masters or doctorates because they’re enjoying their academic studies that much, then they’ll be able to do so, financed by the bank of mum and dad. If they want to live and work in London, we will help them do so again, financed by the bank of mum and dad.

& at the back of my mind is the knowledge that other people’s children don’t have those choices. The world of work is narrowing; the middle classes are contracting.  I want my girls to be happy but, like most parents, I need them to be safe first and foremost.

Because ultimately money is just a tool, a way to afford a life you want to live and we want to live close to our children and for them to be happy (in the hop that th two are not incompatible). Happiness wasn’t a factor in our decision making when we were younger. We had to earn money to live. Now that we have the money, I’d like my daughters to have broader choices, to have a safety net to catch them if those choices don’t work out.

Depressing

Politics is depressing at the moment, which is one of the reason for all of the new recipes. When in doubt, cook.

Life is depressing because it seems increasingly clear that the divisions within the government and within the country as a whole, identified and exacerbated by the EU referendum, are wider than ever. And no matter what the outcome, that means half of the electorate is left seriously angry and upset about the outcome.

Immediately after the referendum it was possible for the government to take a deep breath, pause and hold some open house meetings up and down the country to try and work out the answers to some really basic questions.

Why did people vote “leave” in such large numbers?

What exactly did they believe they were voting for, out of the EU, out of the single market and out of the customs union? All of these or just one or two?

And how much are they willing to pay for the privilege?

I might want lots of things, but if it starts to cost me more money than I’ve got, I start to temper my request. People did not vote to become even poorer. They did not vote to lose their jobs.

Anyway of course this is all water under the bridge because in the shock and panic immediately after the referendum result, the one striking absence in our political life was leadership.

Most of the people responsible just ran away from the responsibility of making it work. the PM resigned. The Chancellor followed shortly thereafter. After a shocked press conference, the main leaders of the “leave” campaign very publicly stabbed each other in the back making them unelectable to the leadership they both wanted.

So we ended up with a “safe pair of hands” otherwise known as Theresa May, who I have some sympathy for still.

I can believe that she is a woman with ambitions. No woman gets to succeed in such a bear pit without ambition and a sizeable amount of competence. So she probably wanted the job at first. As did her carefully balance first cabinet. The brexit campaigning ministers David Davis and Liam Fox seemed positively cock-a-hoop with their success, as did the less than convinced by brexit Chancellor, Hammond.

But as time goes by, and in particular as the reality of a very mis-judged election have hit home, any successful outcome for brexit has retreated further and further away from achievable. The PM was not poorly advised to call an election necessarily, since her lead in the polls was convincing.

But the campaign was poorly coordinated and risked alienating anyone who had voted “remain” with its harder than hard brexit stance. We may all be parroting the “will of the people” when describing the mandate to leave the EU, but they also needed to remember the 48% of the electorate who voted remain and who either stayed home or voted with the opposition party, wiping out the government’s majority and forcing them to form an alliance with the N Ireland DUP.

The latter make any compromise agreement on the Irish border with the EU almost unachievable. The one gaping big hole in the brexit “leave” campaign “what about Ireland” suddenly comes front forward into focus. The DUP will not tolerate the idea of “special status” where N ireland becomes more closely tied to the Republic of Ireland and less tied to the Union. At the same time it cannot abide a hard border between the two Irish halves.

The N Irish electorate voted “remain” and their economy, already weak and relatively poor in UK terms is inextricably tied to it’s southern neighbour. so the UK is forced into agreeing with the EU that there will be no hard border and that we will remain in “regulatory alignment” going forward and that looks and sounds very like a customs union.

Yes, say the government A customs union but not THE customs union, and one is left wondering how thin they can slice that hair. If it looks like a duck, if it quacks like a duck etc. Because if the UK is unable to make independent trade deals with third party countries, then what on earth is the point of leaving? And a fundamental part of any customs union is centralised negotiations of trade deals with third party countries.

It’s a difficult circle to square. & with a minority government, all legislation requires the positive consent of the DUP, a party to whom this trickiest of problems is fundamental. Suggestions and hints from David Davis that the government commitments were in some way just a “fudge” were immediately knocked back by the EU who threatened to write them into the contract prior to trade negotiations.

So now here we are with a UK government about to start trade negotiations having unilaterally decided to leave the single market and the customs union, looking for a trade deal of some sort, yet unable to define that trade deal because of the conflicting requirements within it’s own party. The loudest voices on the topic are noticeably from outside the government itself, from party members who have yet to come to terms with the reality of minority rule. The loudest voices seem entirely unconcerned with what can be practically delivered.

& you have the EU basically asking the UK to simply define what they want coherently so that negotiations can begin whilst refusing to schedule time for meetings, until such clarity can be provided.

So I’m coming to the view that we will bomb out of the EU onto WTO rules, which will lead to a hard border in Ireland, not because either the UK or EU want a border, but because basic WTO rules require the EU to have a border with third party countries absent a customs union or comprehensive trade deal.

And as well as leaving the EU, we are leaving the 970 bilateral treaties the EU has with third party countries such as the US and China. It might be hoped that these would be simple agreements to transfer to a newly independent UK but at least some of the countries involved (SKorea, Chile etc) have indicated that they would want to look again at the terms. there is no guarantee that the deals will be so favourable for the UK standing outside of the EU.

It’s all a bit depressing really, just a little bit rubbishy.

Laksa

With its searing chilli, ginger and garlic enveloped by a blanket of noodles and coconut soup, I think laksa is a wonderful antidote to colds and cold weather. I urge any swede-dodgers to think twice about today’s recipe: its buttery earthiness, alongside the caramelised shallots, adds a sweet and smoky magic.

Laksa

Prep 12 min
Cooking 45 min
Serves 4
6 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
3cm ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
4 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
2½ tsp ground cumin
2 lemongrass stalks, bases only, roughly chopped
30g fresh coriander, leaves and stalks
6 banana shallots, peeled and halved
1 litre vegetable stock (suitable for vegans)
Rapeseed oil
1 x 400ml tin coconut milk
1½ tsp salt
1½ tsp sugar
800g root or comfort vegetable eg. potato, butternut quash, swede (ie, about ¾ of a large one), peeled
150g rice vermicelli noodles
2 limes, cut into 4 wedges each

Heat the oven to 200C/390F/gas mark 6 and line two large baking trays with foil.

To make the laksa paste, put the garlic, ginger, chilli powder, ground cumin, lemongrass, coriander stalks and two shallots into a blender with 150ml stock, and whizz to a paste.

Heat two tablespoons of oil in a deep-sided pot on a low flame and, once hot, scrape the paste into the pot. Cook for 10-15 minutes, stirring regularly so it doesn’t catch, then slowly add the coconut milk until it’s well mixed in. Add the remaining stock, the salt and the sugar, and simmer for 20 minutes until rich and flavourful. Season to taste, then take off the heat.

While the soup is cooking, halve the root vegetable, say swede, cut it into 1cm-thick slices, then arrange on one of the lined trays. Separate the remaining shallots into “petals” by halving them and removing the individual segments, and put these on the second lined tray. Lightly drizzle oil over both vegetables, toss with your hands so they’re well coated, and sprinkle with a little salt. Roast the shallots for 20 minutes and the root vegetable for 30, until cooked and caramelised.

Cook the noodles in boiling water as per the packet instructions (usually two to three minutes), then drain and rinse under cold water.

To serve, reheat the soup on a medium heat, if need be. Distribute the noodles between four bowls and ladle on the hot soup. Put the hot swede and caramelised shallots on top and sprinkle with coriander leaves. Squeeze a wedge of lime over each serving, and serve with more lime on the side.