Labour’s Big Challenge

Ex-PM Tony Blair made a speech after the recent General Election which basically summarises the challenge for the Labour party.

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This Election was no ordinary defeat for Labour. It marks a moment in history. The choice for Labour is to renew itself as the serious, progressive, non Conservative competitor for power in British politics; or retreat from such an ambition, in which case over time it will be replaced.

The Election can be analysed in conventional ways – and here it does not take political genius to work out what happened.

I feel deeply for those good Labour MPs and candidates who lost through no fault of their own and the thousands of Party workers and volunteers who, as I know well, are the backbone of the Party.

Of course, Brexit was an issue. It was a Brexit General Election – which was why it was a cardinal error for Labour ever to agree it. But an already difficult situation was made impossible by the failure to take a clear position and stick to it.

I take very seriously the argument that we ‘deserted’ or ‘disrespected’ our working class voters by reopening the referendum result.

But the problem with this position, is that there was no way of uniting the country over Brexit. Britain is deeply divided over it. Now that Brexit will happen, we must make the best of it and the country must come together.

But until the Election settled the debate, as unfortunately it has, if Labour had gone for Leave it would simply have alienated the half of the nation that opposed Brexit; as well as the vast bulk of Party members

Post Election polling shows that between 2017 and 2019, we lost only a small number of voters who were Leave and all the way through we had more than double the number of Remain voters. The biggest percentage fall in Labour voters between 2017 and 2019 was amongst young people, probably dismayed by the ambiguity over a Brexit they detested.

What we should have done, following June 2016, is accepted the result, said it was for the Government to negotiate an agreement but reserved our right to critique that agreement and should it fail to be a good deal for the country, advocate the final decision should rest with the people. Ultimately, we might have lost the most ardent Brexit support, but I believe, with different leadership, we would have kept much of our vote in traditional Labour areas, whilst benefiting from the fact that even in those areas, the majority of those voting Labour, were Remain.

Instead we pursued a path of almost comic indecision, alienated both sides of the debate, leaving our voters without guidance or leadership.

The absence of leadership on what was obviously the biggest question facing the country, then reinforced all the other doubts about Jeremy Corbyn.

What is important is to understand why his leadership was so decisively rejected.

This is not about Jeremy Corbyn as a person. I have no doubt he is someone of deeply held and sincere beliefs, who stayed true to them under harsh attack.

But politically, people saw him as fundamentally opposing what Britain and Western societies stand for. He personified an idea, a brand of quasi revolutionary socialism, mixing far left economic policy with deep hostility to Western foreign policy, which never has appealed to traditional Labour voters, never will appeal and represented for them a combination of misguided ideology and terminal ineptitude that they found insulting.

No sentient political Party goes into an Election with a Leader who has a net approval rating of – 40%.

The takeover of the Labour Party by the Far left turned it into a glorified Protest Movement, with cult trimmings, utterly incapable of being a credible Government.

The result has brought shame on us. We let our country down. To go into an Election at any time with such a divergence between People and Party is unacceptable. To do it at a time of national crisis when a credible opposition was so essential to our national interest, is unforgiveable.

Anti-Semitism is a stain. The failure to deal with it, a matter of disgust that left some of us who voted Labour feeling, for the first time in our lives, conflicted about doing it.

So, at one level, sure let’s have a period of ‘reflection’; but any attempt to whitewash this defeat, pretend it is something other than it is, or the consequence of something other than the obvious, will cause irreparable damage to our relationship with the electorate.

Let us demolish this delusion that ‘the manifesto was popular’. The sentiment behind some of the policy reflected public anxieties, but in combination, it was one hundred pages of ‘wish list’. Any fool can promise everything for free. But the People weren’t fooled. They know life isn’t like that. And the loading in of ‘free broadband’ run by Government was the final confirmation of incredibility.

So, Messrs Johnson and Cummings had a strategy for victory, and we had one for defeat. And I noted the cockiness of the Johnson visit to Sedgefield to rub salt in the wound!  But I would like to see their strategic brilliance measured against a team other than one whose striker was directionally oblivious, its midfield comatose, the defence absent in the stand chatting to a small portion of the fans and its goalkeeper behind the net retweeting a clip of his one save in a 9-0 thrashing.   

For the Labour Party the choices are stark, starker than it realises.

It is gearing up to fight an ‘ultra Thatcherite’ Tory Party.

But Boris Johnson also understood that the country can’t be united over Brexit. So, his strategy is to do it and then treat it as an uncomfortable fact of life but not one defining the Conservative Party. He will adopt centre ground rhetoric on everything other than Brexit and possibly even on that; expect to see some former rebels back in the fold and the Lords; and having turned Brexit from a Tory problem into the nation’s problem, expect the tenor of the debate around Brexit to change.

His challenge will be formidable not least on the new trade deal and the threat to the Union, quite apart from delivering on all those promises to Northern former Labour voters.

But most people would not bet against 10 years of Tory Government.

The first rule of politics, however, is there are no rules of inevitability.  

Labour can keep with the programme and positions of Corbyn with a new Leader. In which case it is finished.

Or it can understand that it must recapture the Party from the Far left, make radical changes and begin the March back.

But the biggest necessity is understanding the challenge didn’t begin in 2015. It is rather the culmination of political and socio-economic changes over the last half century and the circumstances of Labour’s birth more than a century ago.

This is a moment where either we use the lessons of defeat to build a progressive, modern political coalition capable of competing for, winning and retaining power; or we accept that the Labour Party has exhausted its original mission and is unable to fulfil the purpose for which it was created.

As the 19th Century Industrial Revolution gathered pace, the Whig Party became the Liberal Party and the effective alternative to the Conservative Party. The Liberal Party suffered the stresses of Home Rule for Ireland and the cleavage between the Radical elements represented by Chamberlain and the more conservative remnants of Whiggery and then later still had to cope with Chamberlain’s departure from the Party and shift to a populism combining support for the working class and Imperialism; but it was the main instrument of social reform and could still win the election of 1906 and govern up to and through 1914 and the outbreak of World War 1.

 A competitor appeared: the newly formed Labour Party born out of the Labour Representation Committee, a trade union based organisation designed to bring true representatives of the working class into Parliament; and socialist.

In time, the Labour Party took over as the main alternative to the Conservative Party and the Liberal Party retreated to minority status.

So, Lloyd George a great Liberal reformer and Clement Attlee a great Labour reformer ended up in different parties.

 But the division in progressive politics had long term deleterious consequences. In the last century with the Labour Party and Liberals separated, Tories have been in power much longer than the Opposition, including winning 8 out of the last 11 elections, whereas in the years of Tory/Liberal Party competition, the Liberals were ahead .

The Labour Party became reliant on traditional working class organisations and constantly pulled towards a socialism which blunted at crucial moments its appeal to the aspirant working class. It had its Liberal wing represented by the likes of Roy Jenkins, but it was always viewed with some suspicion.

The traditional left and right of the Party – Bevin and Bevan – were themselves often uncomfortable bedfellows, but they united around: Labour as a Party of Government, Parliamentary not revolutionary politics, pro NATO and the Transatlantic Alliance, and within the mainstream of European socialist and social democratic politics.

Then there was a third strand of leftist politics which derived from Marxist/Leninism and was an early thorn in the side of the Labour leadership. From the beginning, the leadership shoved this strand to the fringe of Labour politics. It mounted an assault on the Party’s commanding heights through Tony Benn in the 1970s and 80s, but it was repulsed under Michael Foot who supported Denis Healey against Benn and moved to expel the Militant Tendency.

Throughout this time, something else was happening. The economy and society were changing. The middle class grew and those instruments of collective power like unions lost their industrial base.

And as the State also grew, in size and authority, it became clear that though it was a means of social progress, it could also be a vested interest, and the limitations of the State in an era of individual choice and increased income became more apparent.

The trade union and industrial base became hollowed out. The Labour Party structures had shown themselves vulnerable to infiltration. The values remained strong; but the offer to the People weak and outdated.  

New Labour was an attempt to reunite the Liberal and Labour traditions of progressive politics. Both traditional left and right of the Labour tradition were expressly included, symbolised by me and John Prescott; but the Far Left was back to the fringe.

A study of Labour history showed that in the 20th C it had governed only intermittently. The longest unbroken period of power was 6 years. Never had the Labour Party won two full successive terms.

So, the Party programme was reshaped around an appeal to aspiration as well as social justice, to business as well as unions; culturally it was strong on defence and law and order but also socially liberal.  

We won three successive full terms and governed for more than twice the length of any previous Labour Government.

The Party reached out beyond tribe but didn’t neglect its traditional voters.

It placed itself firmly on the side of the victim, not the criminal.

On the side of the working class who believe you must earn what you get.

On the side of the patient and pupil interest, not the producer interest.

It championed investment in public services but matched it with reform to ensure this money was spent wisely.

It explicitly rejected the anti-Western worldview of the far left and was on the side of people who were patriotic about their country.

It was not – for all the caricature since we left office – a project of the metropolitan liberal elite.  It assembled a new coalition of traditional working class voters, aspirational voters who had previously turned to Margaret Thatcher, and it fused together the progressive vote that had been split in the previous century.

The extraordinary thing is the Labour Party’s desire to re-write its only period of majority Government in half a century in negative terms.

We did not ‘neglect’ those traditional Labour heartlands in some appeasement of the middle class. We made the largest ever investment in schools and hospitals in those communities; re-distributed wealth through tax changes and tax credits; cut pensioner and child poverty; took the homeless of the streets; and through Sure Start, the Minimum wage and a host of other programmes helped those who needed help most.

And we kept their support. In 2005, in Sedgefield, my majority was almost 20,000. In Bolsover, it was 18,000.  In Scotland we had 41 of the 56 seats, including two with increased majorities over 2001. The support we lost was mainly amongst the middle class especially over tuition fees and Iraq.  

The point is not to go back to the policies of New Labour, but to understand New Labour’s place in Labour’s history, so we better understand how to forge Labour’s future; and to set it within the history of progressive politics in Britain where Labour sits, but not in sole occupation.

This defeat is seminal. We cannot afford to repeat 1983, moving crab like towards reality. You know the narrative. Among the far left, ‘we won the argument’ it’s just for some inexplicable reason the British people having accepted we were right, decided to vote for the other guys.

Among others, it is: many of the policies were really popular, but too many of them, our leadership was a problem but did inspire a lot of people, it wasn’t that we were too extreme but we allowed ourselves to be portrayed that way, we now have to stand with our communities in the assault which will be mounted upon them by the Tories etc. etc. plus a bit of we need to be with  working class communities against the ‘liberal London elites’ sort of populism.

If we go down this line, it will be 15 years more of Tory Government.

The country won’t tolerate this. There are people disenfranchised in our politics today, angry at the way the country has been let down by its non Conservative opposition, and feeling hopeless. And for the country, there is a generation of smart, capable, politically conscious people who will never be Tories but have no place in Parliament because of the state of the Labour Party and whose talent is therefore shut out.

Two things must happen.

First, there should be a parallel debate in and out of the Labour Party about the future of progressive politics, how it is reconstructed and reshaped into a winning coalition. This should include Labour, traditional left and right, the Lib Dems, those disenchanted with both main Parties and those not at present engaged in any Party. It must be a Big Tent debate, open and frank.

Second, we need urgently a new policy agenda for progressive politics. At the heart of it will be understanding and mobilising the Technological Revolution, the 21st C equivalent of the 19st C Industrial Revolution. It will mean a complete re-ordering of the way State and Government is conceived and organised; huge focus on education and infrastructure; new ways of dealing with generational poverty; a recasting of corporate governance and responsibility; a stimulus nationally and internationally of the science and technology for environmental change; and very specific measures to connect communities and people left behind by the changes driven by globalisation.

We need policy for the future. Radical but modern. The agenda of the Far Left is not progressive; it’s a form of regression to an old Statist, tax and spend programme of the 60s and 70s.

I understand why for some it has real attractions. It speaks to the intense feelings of marginalisation and desire for radical change.

It is a cry of rage against ‘the system’.

But it isn’t a programme for Government.

To win power, we need self discipline not self indulgence; listening to what people are truly saying, not hearing only the parts we want to hear; understanding that you can’t play with passion alone, but require strategy, preparation and professionalism; winning the intellectual as well as political battle.

In 1983, after my first Election, having been out on the doorstep for several weeks listening to Labour voters telling me that they were voting Labour despite the state of the Party rather than because of it, I attended a meeting in my constituency organised by the Far left, still strong after the Bennite surge, entitled ‘Learning the Lessons of Defeat’ or some such.

Dennis Skinner was the main speaker. At the outset, the Chairman urged us to be honest. Naively, I took this instruction literally. I did speak honestly. I said we were way out of date in our thinking, were far too left, seemed like we were living in the era of black and white TV, in an age of colour, and so on.

I was heard in silence. Right after me, came Dennis, who tore me limb from political limb.

I came out of the meeting in shock. My very wise agent John said to me: ‘you were the only person talking sense, but in future learn to say it better.’

By 1994, when standing for the leadership, I had learnt to say it better. I chose my ground carefully. I didn’t unnecessarily offend.

But, no one doubted where I stood.

The Labour Party is presently marooned on Fantasy Island. I understand would be Leaders will want to go there and speak the native language in the hope of persuading enough eventually to migrate to the mainland of Reality.

But there is a risk that the only people speaking the language of Reality to the Party are those who don’t aspire to lead it.  

Unfortunately, 2019 is much worse than 1983.

Then was our second defeat; now is our fourth. The country is different. Politics is different. The country is less fixed in political affiliation. Politics moves at speed accelerated by social media.

We don’t have the luxury of the Slow March back.

We can correct our historical and contemporary weaknesses; or be consumed by them.

But that choice is unmerciful.  

And before us, NOW.  

Chocolate Dump-It Cake

Sometimes you just need chocolate cake.

 
Chocolate Dump-It Cake

INGREDIENTS

  • 2 cups sugar
  • 4 ounces unsweetened chocolate
  • 1 stick unsalted butter, plus more for greasing the pan
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting the pan
  • 2 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup milk
  • 1 teaspoon cider vinegar
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla
  • 1 ½ cups  semisweet-chocolate chips
  • 1 ½ cups sour cream, at room temperature

PREPARATION

  1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees and place a baking sheet on the lowest rack to catch any drips as the cake bakes on the middle rack. In a 2- to 3-quart pot, mix together the sugar, unsweetened chocolate, butter and 1 cup of water. Place over medium heat and stir occasionally until all of the ingredients are melted and blended. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.
  2. Meanwhile, sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt. In a small bowl, stir together the milk and vinegar. Grease and flour a 9-inch tube pan (Tip: Be meticulous, and really work the butter and flour into the crevices of the pan. This is a moist cake, so it really needs a well-prepared pan to keep it from sticking).
  3. When the chocolate in the pot has cooled a bit, whisk in the milk mixture and eggs. In several additions, and without overmixing, whisk in the dry ingredients. When the mixture is smooth, add the vanilla and whisk once or twice to blend. Pour the batter into the tube pan and bake on the middle rack until a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean, about 30 to 35 minutes. Let the cake cool for 10 minutes, then remove from the pan and cool on a rack. (This can be tricky — if someone is around to help, enlist him.) Let cool completely.
  4. Meanwhile, melt the chocolate chips in a double boiler, then let cool to room temperature. Stir in the sour cream, 1/4 cup at a time, until the mixture is smooth.
  5. When the cake is cool, you may frost it as is or cut it in half so that you have 2 layers. There will be extra icing whether you have 1 or 2 layers. My mother always uses it to make flowers on top. She makes a small rosette, or button, then uses toasted slices of almond as the petals, pushing them in around the base of the rosette.

 

Miyajima (3)

No one is allowed to be born or to die on Miyajima, the island just south of Hiroshima.

We were told it was believed to be the place where the gods came down to earth.

Presumably the minute someone looks like they’re about to pop their clogs or deliver a baby, they’re shipped off island onto a boat.

There is a cable car up the side of the mountain that we failed to enjoy but the main reason to visit is the Itsukishima shrine and the main buddhist temple.

Whilst these were clearly lovely, it was the general feel of the town, the friendliness of the people (mostly older) and the everyday shrines that we cam across just wandering around, looking for somewhere for lovely for lunch or supper.

Brexit (or how bad can it get?)

I have moved through the various stages of grief and appear to have hit resignation. This does not (and never will) mean that I believe brexit to be in any way shape or form the right direction for my country but I am totally convinced that it’s happening: convenient given the outcome of the recent general election.

So now we wait to see where this road leads us.

I am told that with such a very large majority Johnson, the prime minister will suddenly tack to the centre and towards a more gentle version of leaving the single market. These same people tell me that in terms of domestic policy he will become more liberal, a gentler, kinder version of Conservatism.

In other words, I am told that he will basically make a mockery of his recent campaigning. I am told to rely upon the fact that he has not meant anything he has said for the last twelve months, to rely upon the fact that he is a liar.

It is possible that these people are right. Let’s hope so. The country has elected a person who is on record as describing people such as my gay daughter as sub-human, someone who should not have the same rights as other people and who, as well as writing on the topic, has voted in parliament accordingly.

So aside from brexit, I have very real concerns about where this world of mine is heading and what it might mean for my children.

Privilege

“I am, somehow, less interested in the weight and convolutions of Einstein’s brain than in the near certainty that people of equal talent have lived and died in cotton fields and sweatshops.” Stephen Jay Gould.

My parents both left school before they were 13 years old. My father left to take up an engineering apprenticeship, that would ultimately lead to a materially successful life. My mother left school to work in the local factory, to help support her parents and eventually to marry my father.

They were clever people, but born poor, working class.

My father went on to sit his OND and HND engineering exams, scoring the highest marks in the country for mathematics. He went to work for the Arabs, travelled the world, became their senior engineer, one of the very few able to sign off on newly built ships out of the S Korean shipyards for Lloyds Insurers.

My mother passed her 11+ exam aged 9, not because she was especially well-taught in the state local primary school but because she really was just that smart. Like most working class girls, being clever served no purpose, so she valued her looks more. Maybe it was a realistic trade-off since it brought her my father with his upwardly mobile career and money to spend. It made her miserable though, living that half explored life.

When I read articles written that suggest successful people somehow deserve their success, because of some intrinsic merit, it seems that the authors themselves were almost always born lucky, in denial of their inherited wealth and luck.

My parents were born in poverty and it defined their lives, their expectations and achievements. My father worked hard, but he was also born lucky enough to be in the right place to be given the chance to escape poverty through the old apprenticeship system when Liverpool was still a world leading port and engineering powerhouse.

My mother’s luck was even more fickle: she was born beautiful.

My sisters and I were the first generation to stay in school past sixteen, the first to make it to university. We went to the same primary school attended by our parents, years before and the same secondary school. My father was keen on the idea of university, my mother not so much.

At the time, maybe 5% of the overall population attended university. From a state comprehensive school such as mine, with around 1500 kids, that translated into around 5 kids getting to university each year, about 2% because at that time, the private schools were sending around 95% of their pupils to universities.

So when my privately educated friends talk about how “everyone” went to university for “free” from our generation, they’re not so much lying, as just describing their own privilege. Almost everyone they knew did go to university. They were rich and well-educated, so of course they would.

Almost everyone else, everyone from my kind of school, stayed in their towns, got a job at the factory or signed on the dole. And thanks to the occasional catch-up on social media, it’s obvious that they’re still there. My peers went out to work and paid their taxes to fund the rich kids “free” education

But at every stage of academia reached, the one obvious truth to those of us travelling from the poorer side of town was that there were plenty of clever but poor people left behind, plenty of quite stupid but wealthy kids somehow pushed forward.

At university I was struck time and time again by just how many well-educated but fundamentally stupid people could be found.

It started early on, with the kids at primary school whose parents just didn’t see the point of school. They’d probably left alongside my mother aged 13, to go work in the local factories or shops and just expected their kids to do the same. They didn’t have shelves full of books of their kids to read, so their kids didn’t read unless the teachers made them read in class.

But some of the kids were incredibly smart. It showed up in maths mostly. At least to start with, numbers were something that you could either grasp or not. It wasn’t something any of us practised at home.

Sometime around the transfer to secondary school, the ability to read kicked in as an issue just because the maths problems became more verbal, and some of the kids with the best grasp of numbers just disappeared from the top sets never to appear again.

One boy would be absent weeks at a time only to re-appear, pick up wherever we were in maths at the time and seemingly miraculously pass the tests each year for the top set. It lasted up until we were 16, when the maths started to involve more learned skills.

It’s difficult to imagine what that boy might have achieved if he had been supported to the full extent of his ability – we lose so much talent so carelessly.

My children have been well-educated at expensive schools. They have been taught the social “code” of the middle classes along with their algebra. If they struggle in life, they have our financial support to carry them through which means that they can afford to take risks. They have been gifted with every possible financial advantage and privilege.

It is a bitter thought but there will be kids out there, smarter and more talented than mine, born into different circumstances, maybe the children of my peers discarded by academia all those years ago, who could have cured cancer, painted the modern Mona Lisa or written a world-changing polemic.

What responsibility do we have for people less privileged than ourselves? Is it enough to vote for a redistributive political party at each opportunity or is more demanded of us?

Carrot Cake

Perfect carrot cake is worth hunting down and since it’s time to bake for the fete again, I’ve looked for a decent recipe.

Felicity's perfect carrot cake
 Felicity’s perfect carrot cake

The most important thing to remember is that when applying the icing, less is generally more. Because, if I say so myself, this is a cake that’s good enough to eat on its own.

150g butter, melted, plus extra for greasing
150g soft light brown sugar
3 free-range eggs
200g self-raising wholemeal flour
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
½ tsp salt
1 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp grated nutmeg
Zest of 1 orange
100g sultanas or raisins
200g carrots, peeled and grated
100g pecans, toasted and roughly chopped, plus extra to decorate

For the icing:
150g full-fat cream cheese
50g light brown soft sugar
Zest of ½ lemon and a squeeze of juice

1. Preheat the oven to 180C and grease and line the bases of 2 x 18cm sandwich tins.

2. Put the melted butter, sugar and eggs into a large mixing bowl and whisk well until the ingredients are thoroughly combined and the mixture has almost doubled in volume.

3. Sift together the flour, bicarb, salt and spices and then fold very gently into the liquid mixture, being careful to knock as little air out as possible. Fold in the remaining ingredients and divide between the tins. Bake for about 30 minutes until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Cool in the tins.

4. Meanwhile, beat together the icing ingredients and refrigerate. When the cakes are cool enough to ice, remove from the tins, top one with half the icing, and then the other cake. Ice the top, and decorate with the remaining pecans.

Miyajima (2)

Miyajima (宮島) is a small island officially named Itsukushima and less than an hour outside the city of Hiroshima and one of the highlights of our trip to Japan.

It is most famous for its giant torii gate currently under renovation, which at high tide seems to float on the water.

The sight is ranked as one of Japan’s three best views and for the Itsukushima shrine, also built over the water

There are also wild deer on the island that have become accustomed to people. In the day the deer wander around the same sites as the tourists, and in the evening they sleep along the walking paths.

Daisho-in (大聖院, Daishōin) is one of the most important temples of Shingon Buddhism in Japan

It is located at the base of Mount Misen, on which the sect’s founder, Kobo Daishi, first began the practice of Buddhism on the island of Miyajima.

Daisho-in features a variety of buildings, statues and other religious objects for visitors to admire.

These include the Kannon-do Hall, the Maniden Hall, a sand mandala made by visiting monks from Tibet, a tea room and a cave filled with 88 icons representing the temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage.

An interesting Buddhist ritual can be performed when walking up the temple’s steps.

Along the stairs is a row of spinning metal wheels that are inscribed with sutra (Buddhist scriptures).

Turning the inscriptions as one walks up is believed to have the same effect as reading them.

So, without any knowledge of Japanese, you can benefit from the blessings that the reading of sutra is believed to entail.

Daishō-in is is the 14th temple in the Chūgoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage and famous for the maple trees and their autumn colors.

It is also called “Suishō-ji”.

As the headquarters of the Omuro branch of Shingon Buddhism, it is the most important temple of Miyajima.

The temple was the administrator of the Itsukushima shrine before Meiji Restoration forbade (Shinbutsu bunri) syncretism (Shinbutsu-shūgō) between Shinto and Buddhism in 1868

Tofu with tomatoes, sweet soy and greens

Kecap manis is to Indonesia what HP Sauce is to the UK, and it’s served with just about everything savoury. It’s essentially soy sauce thickened and sweetened with palm sugar, and is often flavoured with spices such as star anise, garlic, ginger, galangal and chilli. These days it’s widely available in the UK in supermarkets and online, as well as in south-east Asian food stores.

Prep 15 min
Cook 35 min
Serves 1

280g extra-firm tofu, drained and cubed
4 tbsp rapeseed oil 
4 shallots (200g), peeled and very finely chopped 
4 fat garlic cloves, peeled and minced 
1 stick lemongrass, outer leaves discarded, the rest very finely chopped
2 Thai red chillies, very finely chopped
4 vine tomatoes (250g), chopped 
¾ tsp salt, plus 1 pinch extra
2 tsp kecap manis
250g pak choi, tailed and shredded

First fry the tofu. Put a couple of pieces of kitchen roll on a plate and pour the oil into a nonstick frying pan for which you have a lid on a medium to high heat. When hot, add the tofu and cook until crisp and golden brown (about five minutes), then flip over on to the other side and cook for a further five minutes. Take off the heat, lift out the tofu using a slotted spoon, leaving the oil behind, and place on the papered plate to drain.

Reheat the pan and oil on a medium heat and, once hot, add the shallots and fry, stirring often, for eight minutes, until browning. Add the garlic, lemongrass and chillies, cook, stirring, for three to four minutes, until the raw smell of the garlic has gone and the shallots are crisp, then stir in the tomatoes. Cook for another six to eight minutes, until you have a delicious, soft paste, then turn the heat right down, stir in the salt and kecap manis, and return the tofu to the pan. Stir again, layer the shredded pak choi on top, turn up the heat, pop on the lid and cook for five minutes.

Take off the heat, add a pinch of salt to taste, if required, then transfer to a plate and serve with hot rice.

Miyajima (1) Japan

Itsukushima (厳島) is an island in the western part of theInland Sea of Japan, located in the northwest of Hiroshima Bay. 

It is popularly known as Miyajima (宮島), which in Japanese means “Shrine Island”.

The island is one of Hayashi Gaho’s Three Views of Japan specified in 1643.

Itsukushima is part of the city of Hatsukaichi  in Hiroshima Prefecture.

The island was part of the former town of Miyajima before the 2005 merger with Hatsukaichi.

So after a day visit to the Hiroshima Peace memorial, we returned to the railway station and caught the train down to the coast,

Miyajima Ferry Boats

for a ferry to the Island.

Most tourists visit for the day and then head back to the mainland, but there is real value in staying overnight, or in our case for a few nights.

Once the tourists have gone home, the island turns quiet and restful. The shrines you visited in the morning are open reasonably late and can be re-visited with fewer people, and in the case of the Itsukushima Shrine with its famous red tori gates, possibly more water depending on the tide.

Note that in Japan, the term “shrine” implies a Shinto religious structure and “temple” implies a Buddhist one.

Miyajima is famous for the Itsukishima Shrine (厳島神社, Itsukushima-jinja) which is a shinto shrine, sitting in a shallow coastal harbour, known for its “floating” torii gate.

The historic shrine complex is listed as a UNESCO World heritage site, as well as one of the National treasures by the Japanese government.

It is also the site visited by many families for a couple’s wedding photos in traditional outfits.

For our visit, the tori gates were being repaired and under cover, but on shrine island there are plenty of beautiful sites to see and visit. More than enough places to make up for missing the gate.

Lemon Drizzle Cake

Minimal effort, maximum results: step-by-step instructions for making a cake that always goes down a storm

Felicity Cloake’s lemon drizzle cake.
 Felicity Cloake’s lemon drizzle cake

Prep 20 min
Cook 50-55 min
Makes 1 loaf cake

175g butter, softened, plus a little extra to grease
2 unwaxed lemons
175g caster sugar

Fine salt
3 eggs
100g self-raising flour
75g ground almonds
A little milk
100g demerara sugar

Grease a 2lb loaf tin (ie, one measuring about 23cm x 13cm x 7cm) with butter or oil, and line with greaseproof paper. Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4.

Zest the lemons – if you haven’t got unwaxed (or organic) ones, give them a good scrub with hot water to remove some of the wax first, because this will give a better flavour.

Line and grease a loaf tin, then zest and juice three lemons.
 Line and grease a loaf tin, then zest and juice two lemons.

If you’ve forgotten to take the butter out of the fridge, cut it into cubes and leave it near the warm oven or give it a few good whacks with a rolling pin to help it on its way. (Microwaving will just melt the outside, which isn’t ideal.) Put the cubed butter in a large bowl, or in the bowl of a food mixer, with the caster sugar, a pinch of fine salt and half the lemon zest.

Use electric beaters to beat the butter and sugar mix until it’s really light and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary; this should take about five minutes. You can do this with a wooden spoon, but it will take a while, because you want to get as much air into the mix as possible.

Cream the butter, sugar, the rest of the zest and a pinch of salt; get as much air in the mix as you can. Then add eggs.
 Cream the butter, sugar, half the zest and a pinch of salt; get as much air in the mix as you can. Then incorporate the eggs bit by bit.

Beat together the eggs in a jug, then beat them into the butter and sugar mixture a little at a time, making sure each addition is thoroughly incorporated before adding any more. If the mixture threatens to curdle at any point, add a little of the flour to bring it back to a smooth consistency.

Tip the flour into a sieve and sift it on top of the butter and sugar mixture – though this is not vital, it will help to give a lighter, fluffier result, so I’d recommend it. Use a large metal spoon gently to fold in the flour with a slow, figure-of-eight motion, being careful to knock as little air out of the mix as possible.

Sift in the flour, then gently fold it in, taking care to knock out as little air as possible, then pour into the tin.
 Sift in the flour, then gently fold it in, taking care to knock out as little air as possible, then pour into the tin.

Put the ground almonds in a bowl, give them a quick whisk to break up any lumps, then fold into the batter in the same way as the flour. Gradually mix in just enough milk to thin down the batter to a consistency that will reluctantly drop off a spoon.

Pour the batter into the prepared tin and gently level the top. Put in the hot oven and bake for about 50-55 minutes, or until the top is golden and risen, and a skewer pushed into the centre comes out clean, or at least without any wet batter clinging to it; a few crumbs are fine.

Felicity Cloake and the lemon drizzle cake. Number four: zest and juice three lemons. Mix the juice and half the zest with demerara sugar.
 Mix lemon juice and the remaining zest with demerara sugar.

Juice both lemons and mix this with the demerara sugar and the remaining lemon zest. Leave the cake in the tin, and poke small holes evenly all over the top, then pour over the drizzle bit by bit, waiting for it be absorbed before adding any more. Leave the cake to cool in its tin before turning out.

Bake until risen and golden, then poke holes all over the top and pour over the juice, zest and sugar mixture.
 Bake until risen and golden, then poke holes all over the top and pour over the juice, zest and sugar mixture.

This cake is an easy one to customise: swap lemon for other citrus fruits; or add a dash of gin or vodka to the drizzle; or make a spiced version by bringing the demerara sugar to a boil with 100ml water, the lemon zest and a tablespoon of squashed cardamom pods until the sugar dissolves, then turn off the heat and leave to infuse while the cake bakes.